In the trio of vintages, 1988, 1989, and 1990, the first is the lightest, even green, particularly when it was tasted in its first, even second, decade. The wine, relative to the other two vintages, is the lightest. The middle vintage – 1989 – was too hot. Even searing. As for 1990, it is the best of the trio. The vintage possesses ripeness, richness, structure and invigorating freshness. In a sense, 1990 combined the virtues of 1988 and 1989. Just now, 1988 is coming into its own. The lack of ripeness and the incredible freshness have evolved to the point of being soft and round. The wine is more succulent but still with immense vitality. Our Pauillac Second Growth is very smoky. And peppery, capsicum, with a persistence of fruit that has evaded most other 1988s. In fact, Pichon Baron is the best 1988 I have tasted over the years.