CH’NG Poh Tiong
We often forget that in 1855 there was not one but two classifications in Bordeaux.
And that it was lopsided at the top of those two league tables.
So, while there were only four First Growths in the Médoc (Haut-Brion, although in the Graves, could not be ignored), there were 11 in Barsac and Sauternes!
Even more sweet was the supreme honour bestowed on one Sauternes estate.
Already geographically at the highest point of the commune – about 85 metres above sea level – Yquem soared over the 1855 classifications by being named the one and only Premier Cru Supérieur.
Fast forward 170 years later and Yquem is in an even more enviable position.
Bordeaux’s sole Premier Cru Supérieur is the world’s most famous sweet wine!
Yquem’s 113-hectare vineyard is planted to 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc
On 15 May 2024, our Great Bordeaux Tour VI visited Yquem with five friends from Singapore and one from Hong Kong. The sun came out in full glory as our guide Leo took us on a tour of the grounds and vineyard.
Of the 113-hectare vineyard, only 100 hectares produce grapes in any given vintage. Two to three hectares that are too old are uprooted every year and the soil left fallow to rest for a year.
Yquem is planted to 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc.
Such is its intense concentration, It takes one vine to produce a glass of Yquem. Not for nothing that Yquem has been described as the “Nectar of the Gods”.
Perhaps the greatest change at Yquem came in 2002. From that vintage on, fermenting and then ageing of the wine in new oak for 36 months was reduced to just 20. Yquem continues to be flushed with layered, complex rich fruit except the freshness is now even more unforgiving and sensational!
Chef Olivier Brulard. Only Meilleur Ouvrier de France luminaries are allowed to wear a chef uniform with the colours of the French flag on the collar
CHEF OLIVIER BRULARD
When Great Bordeaux Tour VI visited Yquem 15 May 2024, we were treated to an exceptional dinner personally prepared by Chef Olivier Brulard, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 1996.
The title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France is unique. Different trades are recognised including for cuisine. The honour is given to the chef who comes up top in an annual competition.
The awarding of medals takes place at the Sorbonne in Paris followed by a ceremony at the Elysee Palace in the presence of the President of France.
Yquem’s resident Chef Olivier Brulard was awarded Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1996. Other recipients include Paul Bocuse, Joel Robuchon, and Michel Guerard.
“Sharing with our dear Poh Tiong and his friends who love great wines”
“In the kitchen, Chef Olivier Brulard, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 1996”
The menu on May 15th was as exquisite as the wines were outstanding.
The quartet of 2021, 2013, 2005 and 1989 was sensational. The most magical was the youngest Yquem. The 2021 youngster possesses layer after layer after more layers of exotic rich fruit – including pineapples, apricot, sweet/sour/bitter orange marmalade `– stalked by relentless freshness and unforgiving persistence. What a whirlwind!!
Yquem Estate Manager Lorenzo Pasquini regales with stories of the legendary Sauternes estate
From left: Marie Deloffre of Moët Hennessy Private Team; CH’NG Poh Tiong; and, Lorenzo Pasquini
Editor’s Note
On Tuesday 14 January 2025, Great Bordeaux Tour VII will be visiting and enjoying dinner at YQUEM.
