CH’NG Poh Tiong
Chris Hatcher is Australian wine aristocracy. His maternal grandfather, Alf Vesey worked for 69 years at Penfolds including as their first Master Winemaker and mentoring a young Max Schubert
Singapore is the first export market for HATCH Wines. On 30 May 2024, 14 lucky wine lovers shared an intimate dinner around a singular table with Chris Hatcher as he shared the inaugural vintage of his four wines
CHRIS HATCHER is a part of Australian wine aristocracy.
His maternal grandfather, Alf Vesey, started work at Penfolds in 1883. And stayed for 69 years. Vessey was Penfolds’ first Master Winemaker, a position he held for almost 50 years,
During his tenure, Alf Vesey mentored his young assistant in the school of winemaking and the art of blending. That winemaker was Max Schubert, who would go on to make Penfolds Grange.
On 30 May 2024, Chris Hatcher was Guest-of-Honour at an intimate dinner in Singapore. The fourteen of us surrounded him around a singular table at Imperial Treasure Shanghai in Ngee Ann City.
Following his retirement, Chris Hatcher started his own eponymous brand. Australians have perfected shortening names to a fine art. Tasmania, for example, is Tassy. It’s no surprise, therefore, that HATCH WINES was born out of the South Australian’s name.
Singapore has the distinction of being the first export market of HATCH. Bottles & Bottles, celebrating its 20th Anniversary this year, is distributor. Founder KOH Chin Liang is an old friend of Hatcher.
The most seminal chapter of Chris Hatcher’s wine odyssey was written in 1987 when, following nearly five years at Kaiser Stuhl and eight at Orlando, Wolfgang Blass asked a young Hatch to join him at his eponymous label.
That was the start of 35 years of winemaking which later became Treasury Wine Estates.
In 1996, Hatcher was arguably Australia’s most influential wine luminary when he became Chief Winemaker for some of Down Under’s most well-loved wines including Wolf Blass, Penfolds, Wynns, Coldstream Hills, Saltram, Pepperjack, Seppelt, Devils Lair, Rosemount, Lindeman’s and St Huberts.
His premier position in Australian winemaking notwithstanding, Chris Hatcher is one of the most unimaginably down-to-earth blokes. There are no airs about him even if his presence is very tangible. Which is that of a very dignified, yet very approachable, person. There are few, if any, more stand-out persons in Australian wine.
Chris Hatcher’s other great loves include 1920s jazz, Art Deco design, and meeting wine lovers from around the world, including fourteen incredibly lucky people on 30 May 2024.
Chris Hatcher is one of Australia’s most influential wine luminary. At one time, he was Chief Winemaker of Wolf Blass, Penfolds, Wynns, Coldstream Hills, Saltram, Pepperjack, Seppelt, Devils Lair, Rosemount, Lindeman’s and St Huberts
TASTING NOTES
HATCH Eden Valley Flaxman’s Riesling 2023 
Very pale, almost colourless. Which points to how very youthful this Riesling is, and which translates to great ageing potential. The maiden vintage (as with the following three wines), Flaxman’s Valley is a subregion of Eden Valley located almost 250 metres above the Barossa floor on the eastern slopes of the Barossa Ranges. Small white flowers, minerally, young green/yellow citrus, zesty, and very intense. Lean, pristine, and persistent. Tensioned and taut. Very balanced. On screwcap.
HATCH Clare Valley Watervale Riesling 2023
As with the Eden Valley Flaxman’s Riesling, just as pale and almost colourless. Which, again, points to how very youthful this is, translating to great ageing potential. Watervale, which rises to 390/400 metres above sea level is a subregion of Clare Valley. The high altitude and cooling breezes from Gulf Saint-Vincent allows a long drawn out ripening that results in Riesling of a very tall order indeed. Riper and rounder citrussy fruit than Flaxman’s. More generosity and vinosity on the mouthfeel and palate. Feminine, elegant, and utterly beguiling.
HATCH McLaren Vale Vesey Shiraz 2022
Some 35 kilometres south of Adelaide, McLaren Vale is one of Australia’s oldest, most acclaimed wine regions. Liquorice, coffee beans, dark fruits including blackcurrants. The tannins and fruit are velvety, with a wonderful roundness of freshness. Full bodied and balanced. Enjoyable on its own and delicious with meats including pork, chicken, duck, and red meats. Named for Chris Hatcher’s maternal grandfather Alf Vesey who began his winemaking career in 1883 at Penfolds and who worked for an incredible 69 years, 47 of which was as Master Winemaker. Vesey’s legacy includes mentoring Max Schubert who went on to create Grange.
HATCH Barossa St-Johns Shiraz 2022
The structure is more conspicuous than with its sibling McLaren Vale Vesey Shiraz. Although equally rich and the fruit as deep and dark, there is also a red fruit aspect with Saint-Johns. One of the highest regions in the Barossa Valley, Saint-Johns is situated on the northern section of the Western Ridge climbing to an elevation of 300 metres. Both Shiraz are their first vintage and while enjoyable now, will continue to evolve and impress another 3, 5, 8, more years.
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