This is the oldest, continuous wine producer in Champagne, but not of the bubbly wine we know as champagne. The ancestry of the house goes back to 1584 when Pierre Gosset – an alderman of Aÿ – was a winemaker of still pinot noir and chardonnay. At the time, the sought-after wines of Aÿ and those of Beaune (also of the same varieties) found their way onto the high tables of the kings of France. The blend is dominated by pinot, 45% noir and 10% meunier, with chardonnay making up the balance of 45%. Grapes are sourced, including from the Grand Cru villages of Aÿ, Bouzy, Ambonnay and Le Mesnil sur Oger. Malolactic fermentation is avoided. Ageing on lees is a minimum 3 years and the dosage is 8 g/l. Following disgorgement, the bottles rest a minimum 6 months before commercialisation. Bright straw. The nose is dominated by pinot aromas. On the palate, dried citrus peel, nutmegs, and a whiff of nuttiness. Firm, dry finish. In a blind tasting, could be mistaken for Bollinger’s Special Cuvée which is usually made up of 60% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay, and 15% pinot meunier and has a dosage of 8 to 9 g/l.