Anything that is complex – by definition – is more difficult to understand and explain. Complexity is to be celebrated. And cherished. We should shout at the top of our voices when something is special. For that, after all, is what complexity is about. Being special. Of France’s greatest wines, one of them rises from the south. Mas de Daumas Gassac is the hollowed name in the Languedoc. One of the owners, Basile Guibert, uprooted two years ago from Aniane and replanted himself in Singapore. It is more convenient for him to spread the message in the bottle from here, including to Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, China, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, and, of course, Singapore. Last Monday 19 August, we caught up over dinner at Jade Palace Restaurant. Guibert brought a bottle of their 1991 red. It had been double-decanted at 6 pm. And was 9 when we savoured it. The wine was singing! And dancing on our lips!! Sandalwood, sweet red/black fruit, eager rich, suave tannins including from skins, and freshness like a raging waterfall. Followed by a finish as long as a river. Unforgettable.