INTERVIEW
DIEGO ARAUD
DIRECTOR • LA MAISON DU WHISKY
Q: Japanese whisky has taken the world by storm in the last few years. Why has this occurred?
A: I think there are a few reasons Japanese whisky has completely exploded in the past 15 years. Actually Japanese whisky is not something that has just started 20 years ago although it has taken like five years to be really on everyone’s lip. Japanese whisky has been around for about 100 years. And that’s what we’re celebrating this year with the 90th Anniversary of Nikka Whisky, going back through the history of this wonderful whisky producer.
So, it’s actually a much older craft than what most people think. It’s true it has been a massive success in the past 10, 15, maybe 20 years. I think the reason is because whisky has been doing very, very well all over the world during that time. Scotch whisky, American whiskey is taking a little bit longer, but now it’s exploded in the past few years as well. We see Irish whiskey coming back on the map. It’s been a really great time for whisky. And the chance for Japanese whisky is that it started getting a bit more international by the ’90s, early 2000s.
As it started being a bit more international, we started seeing some whiskies making their way through competitions and winning awards. Those whiskies were really, really well made by people who care about quality that also has a certain subtlety. What they were looking in the taste of whisky is the balance and, in the blending expertise, very fine expressions. Eventually the world just discovered something of super high quality that they’d never seen before. People were laughing maybe a couple of years ago, like, whisky is not meant to be made in Japan. It’s meant to be made in Scotland or in Ireland. And two years later, it’s just like, well, have you tried Japanese whisky? It’s the best in the world. And of course, some very good marketing placement. Hibiki really had a breakthrough when featured in the movie Lost in Translation.
When it comes to Nikka, there was this show in Japan talking about the life of Masataka Taketsuru. So Nikka exploded as well in Japan at the same time it was getting really hyped up outside Japan. So altogether a lot more consumption, a lot less stock. With globalization, in the past 20 years, Japanese culture has attained a kind of cult status. In Singapore, it might not be as obvious as in other parts of the world, but in France, Japan was, still is very, very exotic.
Masataka Taketsuru, Founder of Nikka
“I think that if you taste blind a Japanese whisky and a Scotch whisky, well, depending on which whisky obviously, but it’s very hard to tell, you know, like the origin.”
Q: What are the differences and similarities between Japanese and Scotch whisky?
A: I would say it’s very similar to Scotch whisky. Kind of follow exactly the same guidelines of the definition of whisky. The raw ingredients are the same, the production is pretty much the same. So too the ageing. They abide by the same rules.
If you taste blind, a Japanese whisky and a Scotch whisky, it’s very hard to tell the origin. It’s not exactly like wine and it’s not just Japanese and Scotch whisky. I think as long as you’re talking about the same style of whisky, such as a single malt, for example, it’s very hard to tell its origin. Except for a few expressions that might be so typical of maybe a producer. But otherwise it’s really hard to tell. So, in that sense, Japanese and Scotch whisky are made the same way, using the same ingredients. One of the men behind Japanese whisky being Masataka Taketsuru whom we will be talking about during the masterclass, he really brought his craft from Scotland. That’s where he learnt how to produce Scottish whisky.
What he knew was to produce a whisky that is quite similar to Scotch whisky. The are, though, differences.
The approach of Japanese people as a whole is to very perfectionist, always looking for the best possible balance. At this stage when they learn about whisky, it was already in the modern time. There were scientists behind Masataka Taketsuru so that means they really had an understanding what made whisky and how to make the best possible whisky.
Eventually they really perfected the craft, like finding the exact right balance, finding the right degree of alcohol, and the right combination of flavours. Plus with their culinary culture, they have a very developed palate. They could go into the fine details of finding the expression that would be perfect for them. Taste, however, is always also very subjective. That’s also the reason Suntory and Nikka went separate ways. Masataka Taketsuru wanted to remain very Scottish in the style. Something a little bit stronger, a little bit heavier, oilier. And Tori-san wanted to do a whisky that was a bit lighter, a bit more floral, a little bit easier for the Japanese palate. Altogether as a whole, Japanese whisky is well known for being very balanced, a bit lighter, a bit more subtle.
”There will be a little surprise in this masterclass, which is something very exclusive that I would imagine no one has yet tried. It will be very, very valuable.”
Q: What discoveries will participants make at your masterclass of the six Nikka whisky?
I hope they will discover a little bit more about the history of Nikka. That’s the main thing we are here to talk about. I hope they will have a bit more of an insight into the world of whisky. I think that for super connoisseurs, there will be a lot of subtlety that they will experience. But maybe for people more in the wine industry who may think of the world of whisky as one big thing, they may discover it has so many little doors that can open to so many incredible stories, like how just the raw material, the way you produce a whisky, the way you age a whisky, all of these things can have an impact on the final product. On top of talking about Nikka, we will be talking about whisky as a whole.
And then obviously, there will be a little surprise in this masterclass, which is something very exclusive that I would imagine no one has yet tried. It will be very, very valuable.
Nikka Whisky Masterclass
1600 to 1715 hrs
Hibiscus I & II & III • Mezzanine Level
Speaker • Diego Araud, Marketing Director of La Maison du Whisky
Co-Host • CH’NG Poh Tiong, Keeper of the Quaich
Original Price• S$182.03nett (S$167 + 9% GST)
Discounted Price • S$163.83 nett (S$150.3 + 9% GST)
- Nikka Whisky From The Barrel
- Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky
- Nikka Whisky Single Malt Yoichi
- Nikka Whisky Single Malt Miyagikyo
- Nikka Whisky Taketsuru Pure Malt
- A surprise
Original article from www.decanter.com/wine-news/unlocking-the-secrets-of-nikka-whisky-exclusive-interview-with-diego-araud-540957