Of the trio of vintages starting from 1988, 1990 is the best for the reds, combining ripeness, richness and freshness. The lightest, leanest vintage is 1988. Then followed the heatwave of 1989 which wines, compared to 1990, just came up a little short. The 1990 dry whites are ripe and rich too. But lack greater freshness. Still, this is very impressive at 29 years old. Shimmering mid-gold complexion with sunshine on the nose. A complex wine is one where the palate plays hide and seek. This is no exception. Sandalwood, over-ripe citrus peel, lemon confit, sherry-like, but also reminding of a fully-evolved, mature, full-bodied Burgundy Grand Cru. An intriguing, complex Pessac-Leognan.
CH’NG Poh Tiong
