The Importance of Provenance

Provenance is the most important consideration when drinking old vintages.

Has the bottle been cellared under ideal temperature, humidity and away from light?

Almost half a century old, the magnum of Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot 1976 – a Year of the Dragon – we will be pouring Wednesday 2 April comes direct from the cellar of the Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. From there, it went directly to the negociant we buy from, hence the exceptionally high level in the 1.5 litre bottle.

Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2008 is also direct from the chateau. Harvest 2008 is a good to very good vintage and although more famous for its white, Domaine de Chevalier Rouge represents exceptional value as it overdelivers all the time. At 15 years young, the wine is just opening up.

Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot

Domaine de Chevalier

Champagne Tsarine Rosé Brut is showing evolution and wonderful bottle age. I opened a magnum three months ago and enjoyed every bubble. This other magnum is the last (have to get more after this).

The first time I had Freeman Ryo-Fu Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2019 was over a dinner in Singapore with Winemaker Akiko Freeman whose husband Ken is proprietor of the Sonoma winery. The intense and persistent fruit, creamy texture and effortless harmony reminded of a Burgundy Grand Cru. Batard or Chevalier Montrachet came to mind. Following the dinner, I discovered the vintage was no longer available from the distributor. They ordered more from California and I took delivery of a few bottles two months ago.

Incidentally, Freeman Ryo-Fu Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2019 was served on 11 April 2024 to then US Vice-President Kamala Harris at the US State Department reception.

Champagne Tsarine

Freeman Winery

Pascal Jolivet

The other white before the full-bodied Russian River Chardonnay is from the Loire Valley. Pascal Jolivet lives and breathes Sancerre (where he lives) when he is not travelling the world but also makes wine from neighbouring Pouilly-Fume. Both appellations are benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc and the lively Loire white will be salivating with the deep-fried Frog’s legs.

Dinner 10th April, including myself, will be nine of us.

I hope you come share my wines. And conversation.