The Barthelme Family, from left Jacky, Marie-Therese, Marie-Claire, Maurice, Pauline (daughter of Marie-Claire Mann and Maurice) and Antoine (son of Jacky & Marie-Therese)
Fifty and more years ago, Alsace Gewurztraminer and German Riesling were very popular wines. So was a Portugese pinky called Mateus Rosé. The most famous, though, was a German Liebfraumilch called Blue Nun.
Times and fashion change and those last two wines are hardly, if ever, seen in Singapore.
German Riesling are still enjoyed and – less regularly – Alsace Gewurztraminer.
Readers who wish to re-visit this Alsatian classic – perhaps experience it for the first time – have two excellent Domaine Albert Mann Gewurztraminer to choose from.
Domaine Albert Mann’s 23 hectares of vineyards has been biodynamic and organic since 1997 and include the Grand Cru Steingrubler
Domaine Albert Mann Gewurztraminer 2019
Bright straw green. On the nose, floral/roses)/longan/lychee and a hint of cloves. Elegantly fruity. Velvety texture. Medium-plus bodied. A pinch of sweetness. On screwcap.
Domaine Albert Mann Grand Cru Steingrubler Gewurztraminer 2017
Bright straw green. The profile of aromatics is identical but considerably more fragrant. Being a Grand Cru, the palate is finer, more intense, spicier, more layered, longer. The texture is not as velvety but considerably fresher reflecting, no doubt also, the vintage character. Delicate pinch of sweetness. To enjoy now or to cellar away. Under cork.
Domaine Albert Mann is the union of two families. Combined, they count for more than 700 years of winegrowing experience.
The Manns have been cultivating vines since the beginning of the 17th Century. Present owners of the domaine are relatively younger as the Barthelme Family have been winegrowers only since 1654.
Brothers Maurice and Jacky Barthelme are in charge, one of viticulture and the other in the cellar. Maurice is married to Marie-Claire, daughter of the late Albert Mann. Maurice has since retired.
Winemaker Jacky now works with son Antoine as a team.
The domaine is in Wettolsheim in the heart of Alsace. The village is just eight kilometres south-west of the city of Colmar with its picturesque, well-preserved old town.
The 23-hectare domaine has been biodynamic and organic since 1997. The wines are very pure, driven, full of energy and intensity. This is the case not just of their special cuvées but also entry-point wines.
Domaine Albert Mann is open to the public Monday to Saturday 9 am to 12 noon, and 2 to 6 pm. It is best to make a prior appointment at www.albertmann.com/nous-rencontrer.
This trio of Rieslings is a wonderful introduction to Domaine Albert Mann. The wines graduate in quality, intensity, and concentration. All three are sealed by screw-cap, and delicious both as an aperitif and to pair with dishes including shellfish, seafood, dim sum, tempura, sushi, sashimi, chicken, ham, pork, and doufu.
Domaine Albert Mann Riesling 2019
Bright straw/light yellow. Pure and pristine lime/lemony/green pineappley/minerally fruit. Tingling freshness. Bone dry. An ideal aperitif and to pair with deep-fried dim sum, tempura, pakoras, samosas, and papadum.
Domaine Albert Mann Riesling Cuvée Albert 2018
Bright straw. Intensity and persistence of ripe appley/pineappley/minerally fruit. As with the other two Rieslings, fermented in stainless-steel tank and sealed under screwcap to capture and preserve all that fruitiness and freshness. Dry and very long on the finish.
Domaine Albert Mann Riesling Rosenberg 2018
Bright green/light yellow. Rich, ripe tropical pineappley/citrussy/floral/sunny/minerally fruit. Incredible intensity and concentration chased by freshness. A pinch of sweetness on the finish. This is an outstanding pairing with shellfish, fish, and eel. Editor’s Note: Domaine Albert Mann has a sweetness coding on the back label. Rosenberg is very lightly sweet.