Connoisseurs of Champagne recognise that the House of Bruno Paillard produces exemplary, commanding wines. Take, for example, their flagship Premiere Cuvée. Only the first pressing is used of 45% pinot noir, 33% chardonnay, and 22% pinot noir from 35 villages. The multi-vintage also comprises up to 50% reserve wines from 25 vintages (put aside since 1985). Maison Bruno Paillard ages the wine on lees in bottle for 3 years when the requirement is just 15 months. Also, unusually for a flagship brut, Premiere Cuvée is an extra brut as the dosage is less than 6 g/l. Bright green light straw colour. Appley/green citrus/honeyish fruit of intensity and length. Zesty, racy, and crisp. A delicious aperitif this morning and which continued to pair effortlessly with a legendary Yangzhou breakfast that included beancurd strips, salted egg, spinach dumpling, “soup” bao, pork dumpling, and Zhenjiang ham.