The richness and ripeness of the vintage leaps out of the glass. You can even smell the sunshine. Smoky too. On the palate, there is no heaviness. Instead, the creamy-ish texture is laced with vigour, energy and freshness. Apart from the smoky notes, suggestion of quince, ripe apples, nectarines, and dried citrus peel. Full-bodied. Don’t serve too cold. Nor in a slender flute. Give the wine elbow room to open up in a white, or slightly more generous, glass.